Vancouver Island had been high on our travel wish list for several reasons: whales, bears and bald eagles. But the real dream? Kayaking with orcas. Our road trip takes us from Vancouver city to the Gulf Islands, and across the island from Ucluelet to Telegraph Cove, eventually crossing to the mainland’s Sunshine Coast. From bear watching on riverbanks to spotting humpbacks off the coast. And from wild, untamed nature to towering forests and rocky coastlines, it was everything we hoped for.
Day 1: one night in Vancouver city
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Day 2-5: Peaceful Pender Island
On our way to Vancouver Island, we make a three-night stop on Pender Island. With its quiet coves, forest trails and big ocean views, Pender feels like one of those places where time slows down. It’s also one the best spots in the Gulf Islands to spot whales from land, so of course we had our eyes on the water pretty much nonstop.
We went on a whale watching tour with Salt Spring Adventures. They depart from Salt Spring Island but offer a convenient pick-up service for Pender guests (small extra fee). We spent the afternoon exploring the surrounding islands and scanning for whales. This is what we came for, we spotted a large pod of transient orca and two humpback whales!
We also took the time to explore the island itself. Pender has many walking trails, and we especially loved wandering through Brooks Point Regional Park, a famous coastline trail, with dramatic cliffs, hidden coves and many different bird species. For mornings, Slow Coast Coffee and Vanilla Leaf Bakery were perfect for good coffee and breakfast. We also loved dinner at restaurant HUB at Hope Bay, a cosy spot at the water’s edge. And of course, we couldn’t resist a stop at Sea Star Vineyards and Winery for a tasting, the perfect way to unwind at the end of the day.
We stayed in the oceanfront West Suite at Sahhali on the Bluffs with a private outdoor jacuzzi. Our days were spent scanning the horizon, hoping for a dorsal fin slicing through the water. We were lucky enough to see a humpback whale right from our deck. Pender Island is a rare spot where you can truly slow down, soak in the ocean views, and feel completely at peace.
Day 5-8: Wild shores of Ucluelet
From the moment we arrived in Ucluelet, we fell in love with the laid-back, coastal vibe. We stayed at the beautiful Snug Harbour Inn, an intimate adults-only B&B overlooking the wild Pacific coastline. The perfect place to unwind and wake up to the sound of waves and bald eagles. Our room, the Hemlock Suite, is super cozy with a fireplace and the kind of soaker tube that you never want to get out of. Every morning a delicious breakfast is served in your room. If you do choose to leave your room, you can enjoy the outdoor hot tub or cedar barrel sauna with stunning ocean views.
The real highlight, though, was our black bear watching tour with Subtidal Adventures. Cruising along the shoreline, we spotted several black bears. At low tide they wander the shore looking under rocks for a meal. I can’t believe how close we are to them, what a special site! We also came across an adorable sea otter floating on its back, completely unbothered by our presence.
We also made a day trip to nearby Tofino, which many tourists opt for because it’s more famous for surfing. But we loved that Ucluelet felt quieter and more cozy, while still being close enough to pop over for the famous Big Tree Trail on Meares Island via water taxi. Walking among those ancient, towering cedars was incredible. And of course, we made a quick stop at the iconic Long Beach, where you can wander for miles with the surf rolling in beside you.
Tucked away on the rugged west coast of Vancouver Island, Ucluelet offers the perfect mix of wild nature and a peaceful escape. It’s full of charm and we enjoyed some amazing meals at Pluvio, Heartwood Kitchen and several of the other cozy local cafés. It’s one of those places that’s hard to leave…
Day 8 -9: one night in Campbell River
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Day 9 -12: Telegraph Cove magic
We spent three unforgettable nights in the Telegraph Cove area, staying in a cozy cottage at Alder Bay RV Park, a relaxed and friendly spot overlooking the Johnstone Strait.
We went kayaking with At the Water’s Edge Adventures on two different days. One of the best things about going with them is their handy water taxi. It lets you start and finish your paddle in different spots, so you can really explore without backtracking. On the first day we kayaked along the Johnstone Straight towards the Robson Bight Ecological Reserve. Unfortunately, the wind picked up in the afternoon and we had to return early. On the second day we explored Blackfish Sound in the Broughton Archipelago. No luck paddling beside orcas, but we did have an incredible encounter with a humpback whale bubble-feeding right in front of us!
Another highlight was our day trip with Tide Rip Grizzly Adventures. A comfortable boat ride of around two hours takes you into beautiful Knight Inlet, the longest inlet on the west coast of North America. Here we got to watch grizzly bears and their adorable cubs up close (from the safety of a boat :)) feeding along the inlet beaches turning over rocks in search of crabs or mussels. On the way, we spotted orca, humpbacks and even a minke whale.
The marine and wildlife in this region is absolutely stunning. We’ve travelled to many places, but nowhere have we seen so many whales! Telegraph Cove and the surrounding area are pure magic: wild, beautiful, and full of surprises. If you ever find yourself on Vancouver Island, make sure to venture out to this off the beaten track location.
Day 12 - 13: another night in Campbell River
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Day 13 - 15: Unwinding in Halfmoon Bay
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