Like many I always thought the Seychelles are your typical destination for honeymooners, celebrities and billionaires. With pristine beaches and unaffordable for most. But I was completely off the mark. Yes, you’ll find picture perfect beaches, but you’ll also find so much more…And the goods news is, is doesn’t even have to come at a high price. We enjoyed great island hopping, walking through lush rainforests and cycling to the most remote beaches. I would even recommend it with kids as nature is stunning, life is simple and people are so friendly. We will definitely go back with the kids someday.
Located off the coast of East Africa, Seychelles is an archipelago of 115 islands scattered across the Indian Ocean. Only less than a third of the island is inhabited. We stayed at the three most well-known and easy to reach islands: La Digue, Praslin and Mahé. All in all, we visited 9 different islands. You can easily travel from between island with the Cat Cocos ferry. Tickets can be booked online in advance and the trip itself is fast and comfortable. The ride can get bumpy from time to time as you’re out in the open ocean and the sea can get pretty rough. So it can’t hurt to take sea sickness precautions, at least that’s what we did.
La Digue
Once we arrive on the main island of Mahé, we go straight from the airport to the port where the Cat Cocos ferry is waiting to take us to the island La Digue. The trip takes about an hour and a half. In between you make a short stop in the port of Praslin. Although La Digue is the third largest island of the Seychelles, it only has 3,000 inhabitants. The island is all dirt roads and stunning natural beauty. There are hardly any cars, so the only way to get around is by bike. When getting off the ferry, you immediately run into quite a few bike rental places. Most of the accommodations on the island have free bikes at their disposal however, so make sure to check that first. We only just arrived, but we can already sense the kind of reggae vibe La Digue is known for. By far, this is the most relaxed island we visited during our island hopping adventure in the Seychelles!
We stay at Cabanes des Anges, a small-scale luxurious guesthouse, only a 15-minute walk from the port (we take a cab ride though as we are carrying two large suitcases), and only 5 minutes by bike from the well-known and stunning Anse Reunion beach. You immediately feel at home at Cabanes des Anges. The staff is very warm and helpful, and a tastefully decorated bungalow is waiting for us. The six bungalows are all situated in a peaceful and exotic garden, providing a breezy and relaxed atmosphere. We immediately spot giant spiders in the tall palm trees (really, does this have to be the first animal to encounter!) and a gorgeous green gekko on our porch. This place is paradise and we haven’t even seen the rest of the island yet! Breakfast is included and served every morning in the garden, where cheeky colorful birds and lizards pick on your leftovers. For dinner you only have to cycle a few minutes to find some good restaurants on the island’s main street, directly at or even on the beach. We have lunch and dinner several times at Fish Trap Restaurants, where you can literally enjoy your food or a sunset cocktail with your feet in the sand. Beware of the large crabs sneaking up on you though 😉
Day 1: Cycling around La Digue island
On our first morning, we immediately set out to cycle around the island. Of course, the first thing we want to do is explore the underwater world. One of the best places to go snorkeling is Anse Severe, a super chill and gorgeous beach. The good news is, we’re practically the only ones here! Stepping onto the beach, we stumble over our first giant tortoise who’s relaxing in the shade of a large tree. What a remarkable sight! It doesn’t end there, the wildlife above and below the surface is amazing. Be careful when getting into the water though, at low tide the water entrance can get quite tricky and you can hit the rocks or corals. This beach is never crowded and you can simply relax here in the shade of a tree or have lunch at one of the places behind the beach.
We continue our bike tour along the northern tip of the island up until Anse Fourmis. Here the coastal road suddenly stops. The views along this road are stunning, so make sure to stop every now and then. The sea on this side of the island is rough and it’s dangerous to swim, but you can take a stroll along the shore and find amazing sea shells and corals. Often you’ll be the only one here, so simply enjoy the calm.
Day 2: Hopping over to Coco, Sister & Felicité island
On our second day, we go on a boat tour with Liberty Charter and local guide Jonathan. Seeing La Digue from the water provides yet more breathtaking views of the island, seeing some of the beaches we went to do the day before. Around 20 minutes later we arrive on Coco island, a snorkeling paradise. The boat anchors right in front of the island, allowing us to snorkel straight from the boat. Snorkeling equipment is included in the trip, but we always bring our own gear. Jonathan also joins in the water and points out the most interesting areas and underwater life. The water is quite deep here (approx. 20 meters) but it’s a real natural aquarium and we’re lucky to spot a sea turtle and a small shark. Time for me to get out and enjoy Coco island from the safety of the boat. Afterwards, we set sail to Sister island lined with dramatic rock formations. At Felicité island, we stop for lunch and enjoy a freshly prepared fish. On our way back to La Digue, we make a small detour, allowing us once more to swim with sea turtles. What gracious animals, I could have never imagined we would they would get so close.
Day: Exploring La Digue's hidden beach
To reach the beautiful Anse Coco on La Digue takes some effort. First, you have to cycle uphill to Grande Anse. You then have to hike around 45 minutes through lush jungle from Grande Anse to Petite Anse. But no worries, it’s well worth the hike. Every now and then you get a small glimpse of the tropical waters through the trees. Along the way we spot colorful tropical birds high up in the treeds and some small critters along the way. Make sure to bring enough drinking water and some snacks to have a small picknick once you arrive at Anse Coco. No beach restaurants or facilities here. The bay is simply magnificent and again it feels as if you’re the only one here. The water can be treacherous on this side of the island with high waves and dangerous currents. If you want to go for a dip, make your way left to the end of the long sandy beach. Behind the huge granite rocks, you’ll find a sheltered bay which is ideal for a refreshing bath. Along the shoreline, you can find small beautiful shells and dead colorful corals. You’re allowed to take them home with you as they washed ashore. So no need to buy any expensive souvenirs.
Anse Source D'Argent - the stuff dreams are made of
On our way back to the guesthouse, we pay one more visit to Anse Source D’Argent, hoping the crowds have left by the end of the day. To get here, you have to ride through L’Union Estate, passing through vanilla plantations and towering plant trees. The entrance fee is 100 SRC but that’s well worth it. On you way there, you’ll also pass the giant tortoises, lazing about eager to be hand fed with some salad. When you reach Anse Source D’Argent, you’ll quickly understand why it’s one of the most photographed beaches in the world: gigantic granite boulders, lush green jungle, powdery white sand and crystal clear turqoise waters. It’s almost surreal!
Veuve Nature Reserve - in search of the Paradise Flycatcher
On our last morning on La Digue, before sailing off for Praslin, we make a last stop at Veuve Nature Reserve. The reserve is one of the last refuges of the endemic Seychelles Paradise Flycatcher, also known as the ‘Veuve’ (meaning widow), a rare black-colored bird with a deep blue sheen. It’s a small forest reserve with several walking trails. So it won’t take too much of your time and is definitely worth a visit. Added bonus is that you don’t have to pay any entrance fees.
Praslin
From La Digue we again take the Cat Cocos ferry to the island Praslin, which takes around half an hour. From the ferry it’s only a short walk to Colibri Guesthouse, our accommodation for the next days. As Praslin is slightly bigger than La Digue, we rent a car which is already waiting for us at the jetty.
Colibri Guesthouse
Colibri Guesthouse, a family-run boutique hotel, lies at the waterfront of Baie Sainte Anne. From everywhere in and around the hotel, you have breathtaking views of the turqoise waters. What a view to wake up to in the morning! The pool is often just for us and it’s lovely place to relax and unwind after a day trip, enjoying a refreshing cocktail and gorgeous sunsets. There’s no need to look for restaurants every evening as the creole cuisine at the hotel is very good. Every morning you can enjoy a buffet breakfast and order cooked eggs to your liking…and to the liking of the skinks that sneak up on your plate 😉
