Ever since I was young I have been dreaming of travelling to French Polynesia, Bora Bora to be precise. A remote exotic island at the other end of the world, in the middle of the South Pacific. Images of turquoise lagoons, green volcanic peaks and luxurious over-water villas come to mind. Little did I know that French Polynesia is actually made of some 120 islands and atolls spread over an area the size of Europe. We were lucky enough to touch upon six of these breathtaking islands.
Five distinct island groups
French Polynesia is made up of five archipelagoes or island groups, each with its own distinct features. The most well-known are the Society Islands with islands such as Tahiti, Bora Bora and Moorea. These lush green tropical islands are all encircled by blue lagoons and coral reefs. The Tuamotu Islands are a string of some 80 low islands or atolls, much like the Maldives. Here Rangiroa and Fakarava offer some of the best diving sites in the world. The Marguesas, Gambier and Austral Islands are less well-known, less visited and also more remote than the other two island groups. As we have just over two weeks to spend in French Polynesia, we visit some of the Society and Tuamotu Islands.Â
Best time to visit
French Polynesia has a dry and a wet season. The best time to visit is between June and August when the climate is at its driest and the temperatures are comfortably around 28 degrees Celsius. This is also the busiest period, so prices are higher and you have to book well in advance. July to November are the months humpback whales come to the warm waters around the islands of Tahiti to reproduce and nurture their young. French Polynesia is one of few destinations in the world where you can swim with the whales. It’s a strictly regulated activity and only accredited professionals are allowed to organize excursions. Â
How to get there?
If you are headed to French Polynesia, all international flights arrive on Papeete airport which is located on the main island of Tahiti. Most flights arrive late evening and you have to wait until next morning to travel onwards. To get to any of the other islands in French Polynesia you have to take a domestic flight with the local carrier Air Tahiti, with the exception of the island of Moorea which can also be reached by ferry. If you are visiting multiple islands, have a look at one of Air Tahiti’s Multi-islands Passes. Depending on which island groups you wish to include in your itinerary, you can choose between different passes. Make sure to plan well in advance and check out the terms and conditions as there are some limitations as to how many islands you can include and in which order you can visit them. Â
16-day itinerary in French Polynesia
With so many islands to choose from and such large distances, it can be hard to decide which places to visit. We knew upfront that Bora Bora and Moorea simply had be part of our itinerary. Bora Bora because this has been my childhood dream and Moorea because you have the option to swim with humpback whales, one of the few places in the world where you can do this responsibly.
Day 1: stopover in San Franscisco
Our trip starts in San Francisco, our one night stopover after a 11 hour flight from Frankfurt, Germany. We arrive at 4 pm, allowing us some time to explore the city or Fisherman’s Wharf at Pier 39 to be precise. At the far end of Pier 39 you have wonderful views of the Bay Area, the Golden Gate bridge and Alcatraz island. But it’s most famous attraction are the sea lions that made the wooden docks in the harbor their permanent home after the earthquake in 1989. Most sea lions are sound asleep but there are always several malcontents in the group that bellow at each other for the best spot. I have to admit, the pier’s quite a tourist trap, so you won’t find the true San Francisco vibe here. But if you only have a few hours to spend, it’s definitely a fun spot that is worth a visit.Â
Day 2: one night in Tahiti
After another eight hour flight, we finally arrive on the main island of Tahiti. Since we have limited time to spend and prefer more quiet and remote destinations, we skip the island of Tahiti. We do however spent one night here, as our international flight arrives at 7.30 pm and there are no late evening options to travel onward. We stay at Manaeva Lodge because of the good ratings and the close proximity to the airport. Free transportation from and to the airport is included in the fee. Upon arrival we are welcomed with a tropical fruit plate and are shown to our room. Unfortunately it’s pitch black when we arrive, so we cannot enjoy the lovely garden with tropical plants and flowers. The room is nice, spacious and clean however. All in all, a perfect place to lay our heads for a few hours before starting our island hopping adventure.
Day 3-6: the authentic 'vanilla' island of Taha'a
As a first island stop in French Polynesia, we choose Taha’a, a remote small island just a stone’s throw away from Bora Bora. Taha’a is often named the ‘vanilla’ island because of the world-renowned vanilla grown here. You might even notice a distinctly sweet scent of it while you’re in Taha’a. While many tourists opt for the more famous Society Islands (e.g. Tahiti, Bora Bora and Moorea), this island still feels a bit off the grid. Exactly why we include it in our itinerary! Taha’a shares the same lagoon with its larger sister island Raiatea. It’s a smaller island and less developed than Raiatea but that only adds to its charm. Here traditional life is still the norm. There aren’t that many people and time seems to sit still. Taha’a does not have its own airport so you’ll land in the neighboring Raiatea after a 45 minute flight from Papeete, Tahiti. Most hotels and pensions take care of the boat transfer from the airport pier to your destination in Taha’a. Simply sit back and enjoy the stunning scenery and lagoon. We even spot a pod of dolphins!Â
Stay in Taha'a: Eden Private Island
After traveling for over two days, we want to ease into the new time zone and kick off our vacation in a relaxed way. What better way to do this than on Eden Private Island. A small and intimate piece of paradise surrounded by a turquoise lagoon and a stunning house reef for hours of snorkeling fun. The six waterfront bungalows are spacious and offer direct access to the lagoon. The bungalows are slighted outdated and a bit rustic, but the size and views more than compensate for this. You can see colorful fish, black-tip reef sharks and eagle rays cruise by right in front of your bungalow. Every evening you can enjoy breathtaking sunsets over Bora Bora which is only a few kilometers away. It feels like Robinson Crusoe being stranded on a secluded island. Â
See & do around Taha'a
When traveling I always feel the urge to explore and make the most of our time. After unwinding for one day, we go on a full-day tour around the lagoon of Taha’a which we book directly at our resort. There are also a few local operators offering similar tours at a lower price but the groups are also much larger. During this tour you will discover the magnificent lagoon around Taha’a and Raiatea and make numerous stops:Â
- Visit to a vanilla plantation:Â Taha’a vanilla is one of the most famous in the world and around the island you can find countless vanilla plantations. On site you learn more about how vanilla is traditionally grown and harvested. Make sure to get some souvenirs here as you won’t find them more authentic or at such a good price on any of the other islands in our itinerary.Â
- Visit to a family-run pearl farm:Â Discover all the secrets of the Tahitian black pearl farming, from collecting oysters to the careful selection of the pearls and the making of jewelry. You can observe how the Tahitian pearls are grafted and classified once they are harvested. Of course, you can also buy jewelry in the local shop. But you can also simply bring home a few of the beautiful oyster shells which make for a wonderful souvenir.
- Visit and tasting at Pari Pari rum factory: Besides vanilla, Taha’a is also one of the largest rum producers in the region. At the rum factory you learn more about the manufacturing process, from the sugar cane press to the actual tasting of different rums.
- Drift snorkeling at a breathtaking coral garden: You end the day by drift snorkeling at the gorgeous coral garden right next to the Taha’a by Pearl Resort. We read about the coral garden being one of the best snorkeling spots on the Society Islands and we couldn’t agree more! Simply let yourself drift over the colorful corals and be mesmerized by its beauty. The show is spectacular with an incredible amount of different fish species, such as clownfish and giant anemones.
We spend three nights and two full days in Taha’a. This is sufficient if, like us, you have limited time to spend. However, in hindsight, we could have easily spend four to five nights here. We would then have had more time to enjoy our ‘Robison Crusoe’ island and to explore the island of Taha’a and the neighboring island of Raiatea on or own and at our own pace. From all the islands we’ve visited, Taha’a is definitely on top of our list due to its authentic vibe and beautiful underwater scenery.
Day 6-9: living the dream in Bora Bora
Our second destination is Bora Bora, a childhood dream come true. Bora Bora is often referred to as the ‘Pearl of the Pacific’ because of its turquoise lagoon and white sandy beaches. In the center of the island are the remnants of an extinct volcano with the two rising peaks of Mount Pahia and Mount Otemanu. The flight from Raiatea to Bora Bora is only 15 minutes. The airport of Bora Bora is located on a small motu surrounded by a lagoon that is simply out of this world with so many countless shades of blue. While most tourists board one of the luxurious resort boats to one of the many over-water resorts, we hop on the Air Tahiti shuttle boat that takes you to Vaiatape harbour in about 30 minutes. Luckily, the skies are clear and we get to see the tip of Mount Otemanu standing tall on the island. This is really a dream come true!
Stay in Bora Bora: Ke One Cottages
The dream however also comes at a cost. Prices of hotels and resorts in Bora Bora are quite high compared to most other islands. Also, tourists are more plenty here than at Taha’a and the other islands we visit. Although the luxurious over-water villas look very appealing, we are quite content with our 5-star rated Ke One Cottages, directly at the southern tip of Matira Beach, the best beach of Bora Bora. It’s not hard to see why: the crystal clear water feels like swimming in a pool and we immediately spot gigantic sting rays right in front of our cottage. The cottage comes with free use of kayaks and bikes, both of which we use a lot during our stay. It proves an excellent base for exploring the whole island and experience some of the local culture.Â
See & do in Bora Bora
We have two full days to spend on Bora Bora, so that gives us plenty of time to explore the island, engage in some fun water activities, and lots of snorkeling of course.Â
- Kayak, snorkel and relax on Matira beach: when you visit this beach, you’ll instantly understand why it’s Bora Bora’s most popular beach. The color of the water is simply out of this world. Although it’s a public beach, it’s still untouched by mass commercialization. Here you can still find yourself all alone on a stretch of beach or watch local families catch their evening meal. When kayaking or snorkeling, you’ll encounter large stingrays and coral patches with colorful fish. Just lay down on the soft, white sand underneath the waving palm trees and enjoy this piece of paradise.
- Book a snorkeling lagoon tour with Reef Discovery and swim with eagle and manta rays: this is truly the best tour we’ve done in all of French Polynesia, mainly because of the enthusiasm and expertise of the guides. First stop is a sanctuary for eagle rays where we snorkel with dozens of spotted eagles rays floating gracefully over the sand below. Next stop is the so-called ‘aquarium’ where you get to see a multitude of tropical fish and nice corals. Last but certainly not least, you stop at the manta ray cleaning station where mantas pass by to have their skin, gills and teeth cleaned by small cleaner wrasses. I must admit I am a bit scared swimming here, as the channel in between the two reefs is quite deep and the water is slightly murky. But as soon as I see two large mantas gently gliding in my direction, I forget everything else. This is truly magic!
- Drive or cycle around the island: the Circle Island Road is a 32 km (20 miles) paved flat road that winds around the entire island of Bora Bora. We rent a small car for the day at MRC rent, close to our cottage at the southern tip of Matira beach. Of all the car rental companies, they have the best value for money. The island itself does not have much to offer, as all resorts are located on the surrounding motus and most activities are taking place in the lagoon. But it’s still nice to get a feel for the authentic local life, especially since it’s in such sharp contrast to the glamour and luxury of the over-water resorts.
- Snorkel off-shore with manta rays at Pointe Ta’ihi:Â here you can encounter manta rays by entering the water from shore. It’s only a short swim to the deeper area but be careful not to cut yourself while swimming over the shallow coral reef. As soon as you reach the steep drop-off, keep swimming alongside it either to the left or right. Make sure to go early as this increases your chances of spotting the manta rays.Â
- Visit Vaitape: Bora Bora’s main town and wharf is also worth a visit. Don’t forget to grab a home-made ice cream at laorana Gelato or visit one of the many art galeries.
- Experience Heiva I Bora Bora: every year in the month of July, the annual festival of song and dance or ‘the celebration of life’ is taking place at Vaitape square. The colorful cultural event is known for its music, dancing, singing and sporting events that highlight the beauty and culture of the Polynesian people of French Polynesia. The competitions of Heiva highlight ancestral traditions and legends. You can’t miss it if you’re in Bora Bora during this month and the best thing is, you can experience it all free of charge!
- Don’t book a snorkeling tour to swim with black-tip sharks and stingrays: in Bora Bora like most other islands, you also have the option to swim with black-tip reef sharks and stingrays by booking a tour. We consciously choose to skip this activity in Bora Bora, as the sharks and rays here are still fed. A very controversial practice as it teaches them to associate food with humans. Rather snorkel at Matira Beach where you’ll for sure encounter stingrays. And don’t worry about not seeing any black-tip reef sharks, we’ve seen plenty around different islands in French Polynesia.
Eat & drink
As most resorts are located on the surrounding motu’s, restaurants are limited on the main island. The good news is that the restaurants around the island offer a transfer service at a small charge, picking you up anywhere on the island. We had dinner twice at Saint James with excellent food and the perfect waterfront location to catch the sunset.
Day 9-12: the biggest lagoon atoll Rangiroa
Our third destination in French Polynesia is Rangiroa, the second largest lagoon atoll in the world and the largest lagoon atoll in all of French Polynesia. It’s known for it’s renowned diving and the richest and most beautiful coral reefs which can also be explored while snorkeling. The slow pace of life and the dreamy deserted islands make you fall in love immediately. Rangiroa belongs to the Tuamotu island group, so it’s a little over an hour to fly there.Â
Stay in Rangirao: Les Relais de Joséphine
In Rangiroa we decide to splurge a little and stay at the family-run guesthouse Les Relais de Joséphine. It’s set right at the Tipatu pass, so during the day you see bottlenose dolphins playing in the pass and at night sharks swim by while you’re enjoying dinner. The guesthouse offers 7 comfortable and fully equiped bungalows with a private terrace where you can relax and enjoy the view. Ours is directly at the pass, so at night it does get a bit loud with the waves rolling in, but you take that for granted on such a privileged location. Half-board is included in the room price, so you get to enjoy breakfast and dinner on the outside terrace overlooking the pass. During the day, the restaurant is also open for lunch for both residents and outsiders. Make sure to enjoy a cocktail here during sunset hour!
See & do in Rangirao
- Excursion to Reef Island and the Blue Lagoon with Orava excursions: Reef Island is known for its raised coral structures or ‘feos’ that are shaped by erosion over hundreds of years. The coral formations form a wall against the ocean, creating crystal clear channels and natural pools to swim in. Next stop, the Blue Lagoon, is an absolute must visit and feels like stepping into a postcard. The blue colors of the lagoon are simply unreal! You see so many black-tip reef sharks here cruising the shallow waters. The sharks in the lagoon are relatively small, but we also get to swim with somewhat larger sharks, and even a big lemon shark, just outside the lagoon next to our boat. The last stop on the tour is the natural aquarium close to the Tiputa pass. We’ve rarely seen so many colorful fish all together in one place. And seeing the dolphins play in the pass is a perfect ending to an already perfect day.
- Drift snorkeling Tiputa pass:Â although the pass is above all a world-renowned diving spot, it can also be drift-snorkeled, letting the currents carry you through the pass and observe the beauty of the underwater world. The boat will pick you up again at the exit of the pass. For safety reasons, this activity can only be done with a qualified guide, when the sea is calm and with incoming current.
- Cycle around the island and collect shells at deserted beaches: The easiest way to get around Rangiroa is by bike. Most accommodations offer them free of charge. On Rangiroa’s main motu Avatoru you can cycle along its ten-kilometer road and make a stop at French Polynesia’s only coral atoll winery and vineyard producing Vin de Tahiti. You can also hop on the taxi boat and cycle on motu Tiputa. Along the deserted beaches you can find the most beautiful shells that washed ashore.
Day 12-15: the 'pink sand' atoll Tikehau
Only a 20-minute flight from Rangiroa, Tikehau is our next island in the Tuamotu archipelago. This intimate circular atoll consists of countless tiny white and pink sand islets. Tikehau literally means ‘peaceful landing’. In this small paradise you really feel at world’s end. The island’s expansive blue lagoon is a haven for all sorts of marine life. In fact, Jacques Cousteau tagged Tikehau as having the highest concentration of fish species anywhere in the world and one of the best places to swim up close with the majestic manta ray.
Stay in Tikehau: Ninamu Resort
Ninamu Resort is hidden all-inclusive retreat on a private island in the southwest corner of Tikehau, just five minutes per boat from the airport. The eight bungalows are all crafted from natural, locally sourced materials. Each bungalow is unique in design and character. The retreat offers a variety of atoll excursions each day dependent on the weather conditions.Â
You can also explore the underwater world right off the beach. Although there are only a few coral heads, the water is full of colorful fish. The motu itself is quite small, so you can easily stroll around or venture across the lagoon. Along the way, you’ll encounter countless hermit lobsters. After dark, watch out for the giant coconut crabs, freaks really do come out at night! But the best thing to do at Nimanu is simply unwind in one of the beachfront daybeds, the view never gets old…Â
See & do in Tikehau
- Snorkel with manta rays at the old pearl farm: In the middle of the lagoon is one of Tikehau’s main underwater attractions. At a former pearl farm, derelict concrete blocks and coral heads have formed a cleaning station. Manta rays gracefully swim through here to get rid of parasites by small cleaner wrasse. We’ve seen manta rays on several other locations around the world, but this is truly one of the best spots to get up close in crystal clear water.
- Look for big fish or go fishing at Tuheiava pass: Just outside of the pass, away from the strong currents, you can go for a snorkel to spot sleeping sharks or one of the resident tiger sharks! The small sharks I can handle, but the thought of encountering a tiger shark is simply too much for me. I therefore take to fishing with the captain instead and even catch my very first fish.Â
Day 15-18: Moorea
Just a 30-minute ferry ride from Tahiti, Moorea is an obvious choice at the start, or in our case, at the end of your island hopping adventure. Due to its close proximity to Tahiti, Moorea is considered a popular destination with several well-known international resorts. However, the island still kept it authentic and relaxed vibe. Similar to Bora Bora, Moorea is a scenically striking island with large volcanic peaks covered in lush green jungle. When crossing with the ferry from Tahiti, you can already spot the distinctive rugged silhouette from afar. The main reason for us to visit the island, however, is to swim with humpback whales. From July to November, they visit the warm and clear waters around French Polynesia, making this one of the best places in the world to observe these majestic giants while they search for a mate or nurse their young.Â
Stay on Moorea: Moorea Island Beach
Moorea Island Beach is a small-scale beachfront resort with only 12 bungalows at the northwestern tip of the island. The views across the lagoon are simply stunning no matter the time of day. In the morning breakfast is served on the terrace right in front of the lagoon and every night you can enjoy the most dramatic sunsets. Free kayaks are at your disposal to explore the lagoon and nearby motus.Â
See & do on Moorea
- Snorkel with humpback whales, sting rays and black-tip reef sharks: Moorea, like anywhere else in French Polynesia, is home to an incredibly rich ecosystem of marine wildlife. Between July and early November you can have a once in a lifetime experience and swim with humpback whales. There are strict government regulations and guidelines to ensure your safety in the water, but most of all to respect wildlife. We booked a tour with Moorea Expedition but there are several operators offering either group or private tours and all of them have good ratings. Although we did hear a few whales singing through the hydrophone, we unfortunately did not encounter any that we could swim with. Luckily, we did get up close and personal with stingrays and black-tip reef sharks in Moorea’s unique lagoon. The stingrays have become very accustomed to people and can get very inquisitive and curious, also with me 😉
- Kayak and swim with sea turtles: At the northwestern tip of Moorea, close to Tiahuara beach you can often spot sea turtles swimming in the lagoon. From our accommodation at Moorea Island Beach it’s only a short kayak-ride to get there and once you see a turtle coming up for a breath of air, you can jump in with them and observe them in their natural habitat.
- Relax and snorkel at Temae public beach: This must-visit beach is renowned for its crystal clear waters and its white sandy beach lined with massive palm trees. It”s also one of the best snorkeling spots around Moorea. It’s only about a 150 meters swim through shallow waters to reach the coral reef. The reef is abundant with tropical fish and you’ll be amazed by the large patches of healthy staghorn corals. From the north end of the beach, you can drift with the current and snorkel all the way up to the over-water villas of the Sofitel Kia Ora Moorea Beach Resort. The beach has a very laid-back atmosphere with local families spending the day here. It can get crowded, especially on weekend days, but the beach is long and there is plenty of parking space. Â
- Rent a car and drive around the island:Â Moorea has one main road around the island which is 37 miles and about 1,5 hours drive. The most interesting spots are located on the upper half of the island, but if you have a car it’s nice to get an impression of local life on the island. Make sure to take the short detour to Belvedere lookout where you’ll have panoramic views of Opunohu and Cook’s Bay, Mount Rotui and the lush green valley surrounding it.
Eat & drink on Moorea
Unlike the other islands, restaurants and bars are plenty around Moorea. However, Cook’s Bar is by far our most favorite, a beachfront restaurant with a 180 degree of Cook’s Bay, Teavaroa Pass and the Pacific Ocean. At the water’s edge, you see something different every time: from octopuses gliding over the coral reef to a large pod of dolphins passing by right in front of us. And the cocktails are well worth it too 😉
