One important thing you show know about me, is that I often choose a destination based on animals I can spot in the wild. Killer whales or orcas have been high on my bucket list for years but I have always failed seeing them so far. So all my hopes were therefore on Iceland, one of the best places in Europe for whale watching. Although orcas can be see occasionally all around the island, the best chance to see them is along the Snaesfellsnes peninsula in the west of Iceland, only a few hours drive from Reykjavik. So we went a bit off the beaten track in Iceland.
First stop - hidden gem Reykjanes peninsula
Before driving to our first accomodation just outside of Reykjavik, we took a detour to make the most of our time and discover the Reykjanes peninsula, one of the hidden gems of Iceland and often overlooked. Yes, it’s also the place where Iceland’s Keflavik airport and the popular Blue Lagoon are located, but still most tourists skip the rest of the peninsula. So it’s quiet and you often feel like you’re the only one there, unlike the Golden Circle route. And it’s truly unique with endless lava fields, stunning coastlines and colorful geothermal areas. A large part of the peninsula is therefore a dedicated UNESCO world heritage site or geoparc. Below you can find some tips on the best places to visit.
Valahnúkamöl cliffs
The rugged coast and islands here have been shaped by lava and fierce waves of the sea. It really feels as if you are standing at the end of the world. We visited on quite a stormy day and could really feel the power of nature. Don’t get to close to the cliffs as the wind and waves can get treacherous. You can’t miss the Last Great Auk statue along the coast. This species is now extinct with the last breeding pair being killed on Eldey, a small rocky island, in 1844. Nowadays the islet is a protected bird reserve and home to the world’s larget gannet colony. What a sight to see these birds facing the storm and riding the wind! Near to the Valahnúkamöl area you can also visit the Reykjanesviti lighthouse, built in 1878. Due to the hard wind, we did not walk up the hill, but on a calm day it is definitely worth the nice views.
Gunnuhver hot springs
This colorful steaming geothermal area is an ideal place to see where Reykjanes (meaning ‘smokey point’) and Reyjavik (meaning ‘smokey bay’) derived their names from. You can alreay smell the strong sulfur from afar. The steam coming out of the ground is very strong here and we often walked through the smoke. There are also small geysers spouting boiling water. Just like many other places in Iceland, this area has its own legend. Gunnuhver is named after a witch Gunna who haunted the peninsula. She was trapped by magic and lured into the boiling water.
Bridge between two continents
This is one of two places in Iceand where you can have a good look at the two tectonic plates between Europe and North America moving. The bridge is built as a symbol connecting the two continents and it’s just fun to walk across or underneath. Although here we saw the most tourists of any stop on Reykjanes, it is still nothing compared to Thingvellir National Park on the Golden Circle route.
As we are on a tight schedule and wanted to see as much of Iceland as possible, we decided not to spend too much time in the main capital of Iceland, Reykjavik. As we will go back to Iceland sometime during summer, we will explore the city then, also enjoying the lovely harbour area. We did go out for dinner in Reykjavik though at Sæta Svínið Gastropub, a lovely, busy restaurant with only local, a bustling atmosphere and good food.
Snaesfellsness – the minitiature version of Iceland
The next day we drive towards the Snaesfellsnes peninsula. It immediately feels like we’re on a road to nowhere. We hardly saw any other cars on the road. And immediately we got to experience how diverse the landscape is. It’s a bit like a minitiature version of Iceland. From countless frozen waterfalls and streams to endless plains, lava fields, beautiful mountains and volcanic peaks. The Snaesfellsjökul glacier can be seen from far away and is often the backdrop of yet another beautiful scenery. Unfortunately we only had one day to explore the peninsula and of course we also wanted to squeeze in the killer whale watching. But if you have more time, then I would definitely recommend spending two or three days here so that you don’t have to rush like we did in order to see all the peninsula has to offer. Below you can find several of the highlights we visited.
Kirkjufell mountain, Kirkjufellsfoss & Dis Cottages
The most photographed mountain in Iceland and for good reason. Kirkjufell has many different faces depending on what side you’re standing and what time of the day it is. The best view of Kirkjufell is from Kirkjufellsnoss, a small waterfall overlooking the mountain.
We were lucky to stay at Dis Cottages close to the fishing town Grundarfjördur, also the departure harbour for our whale watching trip. The views from the luxurious cottages are magnificent. You can see across the water towards Kirkjufell, allowing us to enjoy the mountain view both at sunset as well as sunrise and everything in between. This was by far the best place we stayed at in Iceland, peacefully located in the middle of nature with breathtaking views. In the evening we had dinner at Bjargarsteinn, a cute local restaurant at the foot of Kirkjufell. The food was exquisite and of course the setting and view of the bay added to the experience.
Finally...orcas & sperm whales!
The Snaesfellsnes peninsula is one of the best places in the world to see orcas. The best chances to see them are in winter or early spring. Big groups of orca feed on herring that have chosen the fjords around Grundarfjördur as their wintering grounds. Láki Tours is the only tour operator in this area that offers whale watching tours from Grundarfjördur. we also got treated to a giant sperm whale.
The sea cliffs near Arnastapi
We made a short stop here on our way back to the mainland, but it’s definitely worth a visit. If you have some more time you can do the coastal walk between Arnastapi and Hellnar.
Búdakirkja & Seal Beach
On our way back, we also stumbled across a cute little black church, Búðakirkja. Nothing really special, but its black color and isolated location make it a worthwhile stop nonetheless. We also made a quick stop at Ytri Tunga beach in the hope of spotting some seals. We arrived here exactly at the right time. Of course it’s a bit of hit or miss, you have to be lucky. But after a short stroll from the parking, we already saw seals a bit further out on the rocks. It’s quite hard to spot them against the sun. But when we walked a bit further, we actually got up close to a seal lying in the pale sun relaxing and stretching and not minding us at all. Just keep an eye on the tide, as we almost got out feet wet.
Stay tuned for the rest of our Iceland trip, work in progress…
